Despite the way it has flooded the zone for the past few decades, I find it hard to enjoy most food television as it exists in 2025. Glitzy fine-dining porn like Chef’s Table is just that — an overwhelming series of zero-context money shots. I used to love the instructional “dump and stir” shows of the type pioneered by Julia Child and refined in the early iterations of the Food Network, but they were long ago edged out by competition shows heavy on stage-managed drama and light on learning. While gentler technique-focused series have made a comeback in recent years, they’re now hosted by the likes of Selena Gomez (Selena and Chef), Meghan Markle (With Love, Meghan), and Pamela Anderson (Pamela’s Cooking With Love), photogenic amateur enthusiasts who use their celebrity to justify veering into a lane once reserved for professionals.
So I didn’t expect to like Knife Edge: Chasing Michelin Stars, the new Apple TV+ docuseries produced by Gordon Ramsay, precisely because of the Gordon Ramsay of it all. Since first appearing on Britain’s Most Unbearable Bosses, in 1997, the chef-turned-TV star has built a brand around his abrasive style of personnel management, creating and hosting a half-dozen shouty restaurant reality shows (among them Hell’s Kitchen, Kitchen Nightmares, and Gordon Behind Bars) in which cooks and waiters endure lacerating abuse by the chef, who is ostensibly there to help a restaurant improve its operations (but really to provide entertainment via humiliation).
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Before all that, however, Ramsay was the subject of a five-part fly-on-the-wall ITV series, Boiling Point, which follows his efforts in 1999 to open and operate an eponymous London restaurant under enormous self-imposed pressure to earn three Michelin stars. It’s a gripping verité portrait of a chef and his team struggling to achieve the profession’s most coveted designation.
Now, more than 25 years later, Knife Edge feels like a full-circle moment. The eight-episode series embeds for three months at a time in the kitchens, dining rooms, and homes of about two dozen chefs in North America, Europe, and the U.K., capturing the emotional, physical, and financial sacrifices required of those who pursue Michelin stars. Knife Edge deftly captures the risks inherent to the endeavor: A New York restaurateur says he is losing $20,000 a month in his pursuit of a star, and many of the chefs, their spouses, and children make plain that the pursuit of Michelin glory makes for painful absences. One chef sees a star as the key to bringing his wife and children to the U.S. from Mexico; another knows that a star will help her shake off her nepo-baby reputation. Along with the well-earned triumphs, there are lots of tears, meltdowns, and a few bitter disappointments in the kitchen and at each city’s Michelin ceremony, where an invitation to attend is no guarantee of glory. The stars themselves are bestowed by anonymous inspectors who briefly appear on camera, but whose names, faces, and even voices are completely obscured.
Even 10 years ago, deep into our national obsession with chefs and restaurants, discussion of these stars would have been niche, given that the Michelin rating system only crossed over to North America from Europe in 2005. But as Michelin has rolled into more and more cities and regions, stars are now signifiers of excellence so familiar in American popular culture that they became a major plot driver in the second and third seasons of the enormously popular FX series The Bear.
“Knife Edge has been in the works for years, so as the pursuit-of-a-Michelin-star storyline of The Bear progressed, we would be messaging each other, like, ‘This is amazing.’ It was really playing into the conversation and the awareness of Michelin stars in America,” says series host Jesse Burgess, who also hosts a long-running YouTube food and travel recommendation series called Topjaw. “The Bear was perhaps the reason Michelin were a bit more open-minded [to the idea of participating in a docuseries]. Many TV production companies have tried to get a documentary show going with Michelin over the years, and they’ve always said no way. Perhaps they’ve seen The Bear and the interest [in Michelin] from the younger generation of cooks and diners, and that might have worked in our favor.”
As a refresher, The Bear’s fictional chefs’ Michelin ambition surfaces in Season Two, as Carmy Berzatto (Jeremy Allen White) and the gang begin transforming his family’s sandwich shop The Beef into the fine-dining restaurant The Bear. In that season’s first episode (“Beef”), while appealing to would-be investor Cicero (Oliver Platt), chef Sydney Adamu (Ayo Edebri) declares, “This is going to be a destination spot. This is going to be an excellent restaurant, and I know that, because we’re going to get a star.”
Chicago chef Curtis Duffy, whose two-Michelin-star restaurant Ever was an actual set and a named location on The Bear, whose own Michelin star-tattooed hands are shown plating dishes in the fan-favorite episode called “Forks,” and whose professional experience in some ways echoes that of the fictional Carmy, agrees that The Bear has fast-tracked viewers’ understanding of the Michelin system.
“The Bear has brought diners and viewers as close as one can get to the everyday life of a chef, and as a chef, I’ve always felt that a Michelin star is the most important award that you can earn,” says Duffy, whose now-closed Chicago restaurant Grace held three stars from 2015 until it closed in 2017.
As with any stratospheric achievement, Michelin stars are a mixed blessing, conferring excellence that will fill a dining room and a bank account but imbued with built-in pressure to maintain them, as this bit of dialog from “Beef” deftly illustrates:
CICERO: OK, so you get a star. Now what?
SYDNEY: We’re dialed.
CARMY: We’re trapped.
In other words, for some chefs, the juice isn’t always worth the squeeze. British chef Marco Pierre White famously “returned” his three stars to Michelin in 1999, bemoaning the creative monotony it would take to maintain them. Throughout the Knife Edge series, more than one chef actually abandons the Michelin race before the awards are announced, recognizing the unsustainable toll on their families, health, and even the restaurant’s bottom line.
For most others, though, the Michelin pursuit is a non-negotiable, to borrow a term from The Bear. In Mexico City, chef Lucho Martinez explains his motivation to chase a Michelin star for his restaurant Em, saying, “Em is how I try to tell the world that Mexico is world-class, and Mexico is not no more mustache, and fuckin’ donkeys. I want that star because it’s a dream to be part of that. I want the people that work for me to believe this is something that we can achieve. But the work it takes, and the responsibility, it’s not fun.”
Far more fun is accompanying Burgess and the cameras into the kitchens, dining rooms, and homes of some of the world’s hardest-working and most optimistic chefs.
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