“If we could have anyone dine here, I’d pick John Coltrane, one of the legends who defined the vinyl era with music that still feels timeless when the needle drops,” says Rohan Mangalorkar, co-founder of Gaijin, in Mumbai’s Khar neighbourhood. It is not surprising, given that all the music at the restaurant is from a curated record collection that plays on repeat.
Mangalorkar continues as Nina Simone’s “Sinnerman” fills the space: “His sound would be perfect for what we’re building here: food, drink, and energy that feels alive.” On the other side of the table, directly across from Coltrane, it would have to be chef Hiroyuki Terada — the Japanese master celebrated for his extraordinary knife skills. “Watching him break down a whole fish with surgical precision is as mesmerising as listening to a Coltrane solo. Bringing those two worlds, jazz and Japanese craft, together at Gaijin would be nothing short of magic.”
Co-founders Rohan Mangalorkar, Karan Gaba and chef Anand Morwani.courtesy of the subject
It is this pursuit of creating magic that has made the recently-opened Gaijin a magnet for Mumbai’s elite. While the co-founders are careful to maintain discretion, the whispers and paparazzi Reels of celebrity sightings are constant. Bollywood actors, from Ananya Panday and Suhana Khan to Mrunal Thakur, Mouni Roy, and Nushrratt Bharuccha — everyone wants a piece. “We’ve had quite a few well-known names from across industries — actors, musicians, entrepreneurs, and creatives — but honestly, that’s never been the focus,” Mangalorkar says. The beauty of Gaijin, he explains, is that it feels exclusive without ever being exclusionary. “It’s a space where high-profile guests can be themselves — curious, comfortable, and well-fed — just like everyone else.” The ethos is simple: every guest gets
the same genuine, generous, and grounded experience.
Tokyo Meets Mumbai
Born from Washoku’s (traditional Japanese cuisine) love for fresh, regional ingredients and its meticulous attention to presentation, restaurateur Karan Gaba, Mangalorkar, and chef Anand Morwani’s brainchild, Gaijin, serves up much more than sushi and sake. Collision is in Gaijin’s DNA, with cherry wood-smoked Himalayan trout that sits comfortably beside a Kataifi pastry-topped Hamachi carpaccio. The flavours on the table are distinct yet chaotic, brimming with a sense of deliberate anarchy. “The word ‘Gaijin’ translates to ‘outsider’ in Japanese, and we’ve embraced that identity, not just as a name, but as a philosophy,” says Mangalorkar.
The Mai Chai Negroni.courtesy of the subject
Fact, Not Fusion
It’s “fun dining,” not “fine dining.” As Mangalorkar puts it, they’ve “reimagined fine dining as something more emotional and immersive — less about formality, more about feeling.” This playful precision is evident in every dish. The Pork and Clam Tostada introduces a sweet and savoury peach hot sauce, while their Prawns Robatayaki swims gloriously in cauliflower puree and Togarashi butter — warm yet adventurous. There are more than enough options for vegetarians: the Truffle Corn Gunkan is an explosive bite of smoked corn, miso, and spicy rayu, and the Spinach Cream Cheese Gyoza arrives with a surprising kimchi beurre blanc. “It’s not fusion, it’s evolution,” Mangalorkar says. The off-menu dishes, a surprise for those who dare to ask, are where the team’s creativity truly shines. Take the lamb ribs, which have become a “cult favourite,” or the dishes that emerge from late-night tasting sessions. You will not discover the Chittoro Carpaccio or the pan-seared scallops right away. But when you do, it’s like a culinary treasure hunt that only gets more exciting.
The Sakura Sunset.courtesy of the subject
The beverage programme is equally inventive. It’s a journey rooted in Japanese ingredients but layered with global techniques, designed to complement, not compete with, the food. There’s sake and matcha galore, but the real stars are the craft cocktails that never miss out on a surprise element — think Sakura Sunset with Flor De Caña and house-spiced grenadine, intrepid offerings such as the Oink Oni cocktail, with bacon-washed vodka and caramelised onion rum. Drinks like the Midsummer Ritual, made with Sancha tea and clarified milk, on the other hand, are contemplative, like a cherry blossom breeze in April.
Crispy Kataifi Scallops.courtesy of the subject
But perhaps the most surprising are the desserts. Gaijin’s banoffee is loaded with caramelised miso, and the brie cheesecake comes with wasabi sesame crackers. “People expect sweet, but what they get is savoury, complex, and a bit cheeky,” Mangalorkar says. With the truffle brie and pink peppercorn honey, it’s a dessert that confuses, then delights. It perfectly encapsulates the entire Gaijin experience. It’s not just about feeding the stomach; it’s about feeding curiosity. It’s a space that doesn’t rely on endorsements because its truest endorsement comes from the emotional connection it forges.
Filled with giggles and laughter, Gaijin’s wooden door is unassuming at first, but once you are inside, the service is immaculate and personalised, with sitting options that range from bar-side chairs and back-alley stools to comfy 10-seaters. “The goal is always to make every guest feel seen and taken care of,” says Mangalorkar, “whether it’s their first visit or their 50th, whether they’re in the spotlight or not. Of course, we’re mindful of privacy when needed, but we don’t operate on hierarchy.” Here, Sumi-e (Japanese ink painting) swishes on earthy tableware get along well with matcha sticks that you can swirl your drinks with. Whether it’s the vinyl spinning, the Tokyo alley out back, or a dish that flips your expectations, Gaijin is about discovery without the pressure of pretension.
Tuna Akami vs Chutoro Temaki.courtesy of the subject
Everything begs you to revisit and revel within the cobalt walls once more, regardless of whether you find Arijit Singh dining at the table next to you. “People come back because every visit reveals something new,” Mangalorkar says. “It’s layered, immersive, unexpected.”
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