How to Create the Modern French Twist, According to Celebrity Stylists

“A true, classically perfect structure like this hasn’t been seen on a red carpet in a while and it’s absolutely stunning.”

Such was the reaction of celebrity hair architect Matthew Collins upon spotting Aja Naomi King’s funnel updo, crafted by Stephane Lancien, at the 79th annual Cannes Film Festival on Thursday. Paired with a satin ribbon headband and micro fringe, the style appeared to be a harbinger of a new hair trend that toes the line of the traditional French Twist but with a contemporary spin.

“It’s a romantic hairstyle,” said Lancien, one that — ironically — doesn’t follow trends. “Hair tied up in a spontaneous way with small strands escaping, which brings a lot of sensuality.”

Inspiration struck when Lancien caught a glimpse of King’s “white cotton and English lace Miu Miu dress.” He said: “I thought of the beginning of the last century. I suggested to Aja that we take inspiration from that era, and we added orchids to bring more poetry.”

Blurring the lines between emotion and movement, the style was bold in the delivery of its details. According to Collins, whose client list includes Nina Dobrev and Sophia Bush, the pixie fringe represented a newer version of the aesthetic, similar to Audrey Hepburn’s bluntly cut bangs and doughnut updo in “Breakfast at Tiffany’s.”

The 18th century model — the original — left little to no hair on the face. Layers, if any, were often brushed back with the body, spun and pinned up and off the forehead. It wasn’t until the 1950s and ’60s — when the style became red carpet beauty phenomenon thanks to Hepburn and the Golden Age of Hollywood heroines — that the structure was experimented with.

Hairstylist Guido Palau played with the form for The Row summer 2026 ready-to-wear collection, reimagining the dignified, delicate aesthetic through an avant garde lens. Here, Palau used hair combs to create intricate folds and smaller funnels.

“There’s something about the hair that’s very kind of traditional and has a nostalgia to it, but in some ways, feels very kind of modern and not future,” Palau told WWD at the time. “Maybe that’s the cleanliness of the hair that make makes it feel very modern, the simplicity of it. But it has a traditional edge to it too, which I think is maybe the appeal of a hairstyle like this.”

Palau continued on to confess there’s no right or wrong way to recreate the look. Yet, according Collins, King’s style requires precise measurements and a range of polishing products.

“In all honesty, call your favorite hairstylist and have Aja Naomi King’s jawline,” Collins joked. “But to answer the question, first create a texture at the roots with a volumizing texture powder so it has grit, then blow dry the hair smooth, keeping the hair polished and sleek with the movement heading back away from the face.”

The next step, Collins continued, is to back comb the hair — “thoroughly.” He said: “Take a boar bristle brush and gently smooth out the back combing on one side, comb it back to the middle of your head on one side, smooth it out keeping it tight at the temples, pulling the volume to the back.

“Then pin the hair in place from the nape of the neck vertically to the crown of the head,” he said. “Now, go to the other side and brush the hair over the pinned section smoothly, then roll from the ends of the hair in and tuck that hair, crossing pins to the existing vertical pinned section.”

When the hair in place, it’s time to double down on the shine. Collins encouraged the use of the Dyson Omega Hydrating Hair Oil, which should first be dropped sparingly in the palm of the hands and heated before its added to the hair. The finishing touch is “a strong hold hair spray.”